Vanessa Mardirossian: Navigating Sustainable Cloth Care for Households | On the House #58

In this episode, host Gabriella Joustra is joined by Vanessa Mardirossian, who is a textile designer, textile design educator, and PhD candidate hailing from Nice, France

There is a need for accessible and practical DIY solutions for sustainable cloth care. Vanessa Mardirossian discusses sustainable cloth care by emphasizing the environmental impact of textile production, and the importance of washing new clothes to remove toxins, and suggests DIY solutions for eco-friendly laundering practices.

Meet Vanessa Mardirossian

Vanessa Mardirossian is a PhD candidate in the Individualized Program (INDI) and a Public scholar at Concordia University (Montreal, Canada). She holds a BA in Fashion Design (Duperré, Paris) an MA in Fashion & Environment (Duperré, Paris), and a Master of Arts in Textile Design (UAL, London). 

Vanessa has worked as a textile designer for over 20 years in all fashion sectors. Concerned about the environmental impact of this industry, she focuses on developing a Textile Ecoliteracy for designers. This strong ecological knowledge aims to avoid textile toxicity at the early stages.

Her research-creation engages an iterative dialogue between textile design, chemistry, and environmental health and is funded by the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council. She won several awards from Hexagram, the Sustainability Action Fund, The textiles and materiality research cluster and the Colour Research Society of Canada (CRSC). 

She has also been teaching at the École Supérieure de Mode ESG-UQAM since 2017, where sustainability is at the heart of her pedagogy.

About the episode

For Vanessa, polyester, a fabric derived from oil, is unsustainable due to the release of microfibers that pollute both water and air. These microfibers shed when polyester is worn and washed, contributing significantly to water pollution. In response, companies like Patagonia have developed solutions such as the microfiber-catching bag to minimize this environmental impact. Opting for natural fibers like cotton can also be beneficial, as they reduce sweating and odor compared to polyester.

Washing second-hand clothing before wearing it is recommended to remove toxins and anti-fungal products accumulated during transit. This practice not only benefits health but also extends the longevity of the clothing. Simple care techniques, such as washing with cold water and mild soap followed by air-drying, are advised. An anecdote about dark jeans dyeing hands blue highlights how clothing can interact with skin, emphasizing the importance of pre-washing garments.

The environmental impact of fast fashion and textile toxicity is a pressing concern. Fast fashion began in the 1960s with a Spanish designer’s vision to make designer clothing accessible to everyone. However, the synthetic dyes used in production have led to water and air toxicity, with chemicals entering the food chain and contributing to health issues like cancer. It is crucial to consider the environmental impact of our clothing choices.

Vanessa advocates for sustainable textile practices through the Fiber Shed model, which she helps implement in Quebec. This model, originating in California in the 2010s, focuses on sourcing clothing within a 200-kilometer radius. It has since expanded to 60 regions worldwide, including Fiber Shed Quebec in Montreal. The goal is to relearn local textile production processes and promote clean reindustrialization.

Making your own soap is simple and cost-effective for sustainable clothing care. DIY soap can be easily created with Savon de Marseille flakes and a mixing kit. Using natural ingredients like vinegar for cleaning is safer and more transparent. Additionally, utilizing food waste, such as pomegranate peels, for dyeing fabrics is both sustainable and creative.

In conclusion

Vanessa’s insights into sustainable cloth care offer valuable guidance for responsibly managing clothing throughout its lifecycle. To further extend the life of garments, Vanessa recommends donating to secondhand shops or participating in swap parties. These practices not only reduce waste but also support local designers and stimulate the local economy, creating a positive impact on both the environment and the community.

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